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The on-demand hot water heater is mounted outside of the kitchen and bathroom components, which minimizes the amount of material needed, as well as minimizing the amount of heat the hot water will lose before it reaches the fixtures.  I didn’t tighten the fittings yet, since I’ll be taking the components apart soon.  After I was done, I realized that I should have used flexible connections; I suppose there’s still time.

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(Also, before I receive any smarty-pants comments, I am well aware of the vicinity of the wood/canvas to the heater vent.  Future plans include a non-combustible shield or an alternative location for the heater.)

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I tried to avoid plastic as much as possible in this project, but I couldn’t resist using PEX for the supply lines.  It’s easy for a novice plumber like me, and it tolerates cold temperature better than copper, which is important since the plumbing isn’t insulated.

I realize that the plumbing for the shower might seem odd.  Since I’m using a curtain on all sides of the shower, I’ll have to reach outside of the curtain to access the shower controls.  By installing them above the curtain, I can reach them without moving the curtain and getting the wood wet; most of the water already on my hands should drip back down my arm.  (Or at least that’s the plan; we’ll see how well it works).

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Would you call it a Murphy table?

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The little architect devil on my left shoulder was saying, “String some cables between the floor and the back of the table, and it can be cantilevered!  How cool would that be?!?”  And the carpenter angel on my right shoulder said, “No way; somebody will sit on it, and you’ll be in big trouble.  Just put some legs under there.”  You can see who won.

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More galvanized steel.  (In hindsight, I should have included backsplashes on the left and right, in addition to the rear.)

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It’s made of 18-gauge galvanized steel.  The corners are reinforced, riveted, and caulked with silicone.

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But where will I put my tchotchkes?  (Trick question.)

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It’s amazing how much a skylight can transform an interior space.

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The steel frames have 1/4″diameter posts welded on the top and bottom.  First, the top post is inserted into a hole in the wood frame, and then the bottom post goes into a slot.  A block of wood holds the posts in place, and washers keep the frames at the correct height.  The screen is stapled to a wood frame, which is screwed to the steel frame.

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I had originally planned to build doors for each component, but I decided that some sort of retractable shade would work better.  So, I took the extra canvas from the exterior, some scrap wood and string, my handy-dandy hot glue gun, and voilà!

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My wacko-hippie-New York brethren:

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/13/arts/design/13barge.html?_r=2&hp